Approx reading time: 30mins.
I don’t know about you, but my childhood dream was to own a fishing tackle shop. Not a ‘BCF’ or ‘chain store’ mind you, but a traditional Aussie tackle shop; of the like typically located on a street corner, in most coastal towns throughout Australia in the 70’s and 80’s.
You know the one; windows painted over or covered with logos, packed to the roof with gear, barely enough room to turn around without knocking stuff off the shelves, a bell on the door so the old bloke at the counter could hear you enter, and that smell?
Fishing tackle shops of that era had a certain aroma, not offensive in any way, but you certainly knew you were in one……………..but I digress.
Anyway life ‘got in the way’ and I never did buy my tackle shop, instead I did what a lot of us keen fisho’s do over our fishing lives, and that is buy and collect enough gear to fully stock one!
Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, if you don’t take it out and use it, it’s going to rust!
– Katana @ Highlander II: The Quickening (1991).
If this was you on your last trip, perhaps you could benefit from a little ‘refining’ of your arsenal.
If like me you’ve got stacks of gear lying around gathering dust, providing it’s in good nick, you have a great opportunity to ‘transfer ownership’ to someone else.
In the process, you’ll help clear out the garage, de-clutter your life, and/or make some extra cash for your next bit of gear or fishing trip away.
What’s the best way to do this?
• You could head down to your local Pawn Shop or ‘Cash Converters’, setup a stand at your local swap meet or weekend market, or even take out a classified ad in your local newspaper.
• But for my money, the easiest, most time/cost effective method is – Online Classifieds!
However if you’ve never used an online classified’s site before, it can be a bit daunting. If you’re thinking along the lines of –
- Where do I even start? What site? How do I write an ad?
- I’m worried about my address and phone number being on ‘the net’.
- How do I get paid for my things?
- What if Nigerian fraudsters try to scam me……….
Well you can rest easy, because The Ultimate Guide to Buying & Selling Fishing Tackle Online is here to help you with every stage of the process, and save you from some of the pitfalls often experienced by newcomers.
So let’s dig in……..
Selling Stuff Online:
Which Classified Ad Site?
Naturally, I’m biased, but if you want to buy or sell used fishing tackle in Australia, it’s gotta be Australian Tackle Trader of course.
Seriously though, if you want to buy or rent a house, your first port of call probably isn’t eBay, just like you probably wouldn’t look for or advertise a job on Amazon. There may be exceptions of course, but my advice is to “fish where the fish are”!
Niche classified ad sites are popping up everywhere.
- For one, I’m sure we’ve all tried navigating a site with several hundred categories and several thousand listings, whilst being bombarded with ads that follow you around the Internet for weeks/months after you visited the site.
- Who has time for this caper?
- Secondly, targeted marketing! Motivated buyers and sellers gravitate towards niche sites because they are passionate about the gear they own, use or want to buy. Who best to buy from or sell to than someone who’s as passionate about your hobby/sport as you are?
- It’s a marketer’s dream gig –
- Promote your products to a group of people interested in buying what you have to sell!
- It’s a marketer’s dream gig –
- It’s even better if the niche site has a strong online presence with a growing community of like-minded people on social media; it’s a Win/Win.
Why should I pay for a service I can get for free?
It’s simple. Paid sites help to –
Sort the buyers from the spyers, the needy from the greedy, and those who trust me from those who don’t, because if you can’t see value here today, you’re not up here shopping. You’re up here shoplifting!
– Bacon @ Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels (1998)
You often find that unrealistic sellers will use free classified ad sites to post ads because most sites offer ‘free until sold’ type listing arrangements. As a seller, if this is your particular strategy, I say go for it, and if you want to pay for ads as well, I say more power to you.
As a buyer however, there’s nothing worse than finding gear you want, advertised at near full retail or at a totally unrealistic price, and a seller that refuses to budge.
People, who experience ‘value’ when visiting a site, are most likely to return, and buy from you again.
Creating Your Listing
So with your classified ad platform of choice sorted, the next step is presenting your stuff for sale.
Writing Your Ad –
This is the fun part, but is often the part where so many get it wrong. Take a look at some of the big name brand fishing tackle retailers to get an idea of what great product ads should look like, and what information they should contain.
Apart from the obvious and often hilarious spelling and context errors, it’s most important to focus on detail and accuracy.
The Ad Title :
Be very specific with the title of your ad listing as it gives you the greatest chance of being found in search results. Instead of ‘Surf Reel’, consider ‘Daiwa Saltiga Expedition 6500H for example.
Choose your item’s category carefully. Whilst your ad will still show in search results for the title above, some customers may not be specifically searching for a Daiwa Saltiga but will search categories for ‘Spinning Reels’ instead.
- Provide as much accurate detail as you can and be honest about the age and condition of your item. I find it useful sometimes to browse the manufacturers websites for the products I wish to sell. Product descriptions are often written by professional marketing people, so it can’t hurt to ‘borrow’ some of their ideas.
- Researching and including the technical specifications of your item is often of benefit to those buyers not familiar with your particular item. Consider information such as line capacity, maximum drag, actual weight and gear ratio for reels; action, length, and line/weight rating for rods etc.
- Avoid ‘forgetting’ to point out, not so obvious flaws in your items. Neglecting to mention that the stripping guide on your Shimano T-Curve Deep Jig 400 rod was replaced whilst on a fishing holiday, with an inferior, albeit same size guide. Will only come back to bite you, when the disgruntled buyer receives the goods and demands a refund!
Photos & Images –
A picture tells a thousand words – Anyone that’s ever sold anything!
It’s no secret that images sell product. Quality images have more effect in the sales process than any other element, which is why companies, both large and small, spend billions of dollars across the globe on their visual marketing every year.
You don’t need to spend that much. In fact modern mobile phones are now capable of taking photos, once only attainable with pro-grade camera equipment and specialist skills. Seriously, a smart phone or a basic ‘point & shoot’ digital camera is all you need.
Some basic guidelines for consideration –
- Don’t use manufacturers product images. Buyers want to see the actual product for sale.
- Composition is king: That is, make sure that the item you want to sell is the primary focus of the image. Crop or cut the image to get rid of any unnecessary background. Aim for a quality ‘close-up’ highlighting as many features of your item as possible.
- Exposure: Not too dark, not too bright, just right! Try to take photos outside where there’s a lot of natural light, but not in direct sunlight. You can take photos inside, providing the lighting is sufficient. One area where cameras in mobile phones often fall short is shooting images in low light conditions.
- Whilst an attempt has been made to correctly compose this shot, over-exposed, out of focus photos like this one, won’t do you any favours when it comes to attracting potential buyers.
This one is better; still far from perfect, even to the eyes of an amateur photographer.
BUT: You don’t need to be a pro-photographer because 2 or 3 photos like this one, will get the job done.
- Focus: It’s either in focus or it’s not good enough. No exceptions!
- Background: Try and take photos against a neutral background as it allows the colours in your items to stand out.
- Size: Try to aim for an image size of around 1200 x 1200 pixels. This will ensure adequate quality when resized across multiple devices from Desktop PC’s, to tablets and smart phones.
- When taking photos of rods lay them on a tiled or otherwise neutral floor surface and take close ups of sections, in order from the butt to the tip and an overall shot. This is much more effective than the typical shot of a rod leaning against a chair or in a corner.
- Three or four quality images are usually sufficient, unless your item has much more detail to portray.
There seems to be a trend with car dealerships lately, to take 20+ 360-degree photos of a car from multiple points of the compass. Ok, for motor vehicles, I can go with that.
In our market however, it’s overkill; generally if a buyer wants more detailed photos, they will ask for them.
- Make sure you take close up photos of any damage/wear/imperfections though. It provides potential buyers with all of information they need before deciding to make a purchase.
Setting the Price –
Q. How much should I sell my stuff for?
A. That’s easy, ‘How long is a piece of string’?
Seriously though, it’s really not that difficult. Some factors you need to consider are –
The two basics – Age and Condition, followed by –
- What it cost you or the cost of a new replacement; if still available of course.
- Popularity and/or rarity/exclusivity.
- Listing prices of the same or similar items for sale.
I will generally do a Google search for the item I want to sell and ‘check out my competition’. Then taking the factors mentioned above into consideration would set my pricing within 10% of the apparent market value, depending on how quickly I want to sell.
Obviously this is not ‘hard and fast’, but for 90% of used items for sale online at any given time, it will be pretty close to the mark.
What I will say is this –
- If you want to sell something, be realistic about you want for it. Seriously, no one is going to buy your 3-month-old TD Sol II 4000 for $275 (even if it’s like new) when they can buy a brand new one from a retailer for $300 with a manufacturers warranty.
- The Internet has enabled ‘price transparency’ across the global marketplace. If you still believe that you can dupe buyers into paying more than market value for anything, you could be in for a shock.
- Online shopping via Mobile/Smart Phone/Tablet is experiencing massive growth and so is the number of sites/products available. You’ve typically got about 5 seconds to convince a potential buyer to explore your product further before they ‘click away’. Unrealistic pricing guarantees they’ll be gone much quicker.
Now I’m not saying you can’t ‘test the water’ with a higher starting price if that’s the strategy you choose to adopt? You just run the risk of being ‘labeled’ as unrealistic and not taken seriously. If you’re in absolutely no hurry to sell and decide to go high/stay high, it’s totally your right to do so.
But savvy buyers generally ignore unrealistic sellers or worse, will often reward you for wasting their time, by wasting yours with a barrage of unrealistic offers.
I don’t know about you, but I’d rather be out fishing than ‘playing silly mind games’ on the Internet, but each to their own
Time, as with life, is a finite commodity; my advice is to spend it wisely.
Ok, if you are going to charge for postage/shipping, it’s always a good idea to get an actual estimate of the postage/shipping costs to most capital cities before you post your ad. Then include these figures and the source of the information in your ad.
Postage to Adelaide, Melbourne, Hobart, Sydney and Brisbane $20
Postage to Perth and Darwin $25
Other locations – P.O.A.
Source – Australia Post
Did you know that millions of shopping carts around the world are abandoned every day, at the ‘shipping’ stage of the order process?
Well for buyers, it’s incredibly frustrating to spend hours looking for products, finally finding what they want, in the right condition, and at the right price. Then wading through the shopping cart, often having to create an account first, only to be bitterly disappointed to discover that the freight/shipping costs are nearly as much as the item you want to buy.
Eliminate the potential for disappointment, get on the front foot and get some quotes before posting your ad. The easier you make the ‘shopping cart’ experience for buyers, the more likely they will buy from you.
I also suggest that you list your item’s dimensions (L x W x H) and weight in your ad, so that potential buyers can arrange their own quotes if needed.
Australia Post offers a fast, efficient parcel post service across Australia, and even international, but prices are certainly on the increase of late, particularly for parcels exceeding 2-3 kg.
You can get quotes online; just follow the link below –
Just remember that your parcel’s dimensions can’t exceed 105 cm in any dimension or 0.25 m3, and the maximum weight is 22 kg.
You can check the Australia Post Size & Weight Guidelines for the latest details.
If you do have oversize/overweight items to sell, you can simply specify ‘Local Pickup Only’ in your ad, but if it has to be shipped, there are plenty of companies offering parcel & freight delivery services.
Some of the companies I’ve found dependable and cost effective include –
- Pack & Send – These guys will handle the packaging as well as the cartage.
- DHL –
Sell Price includes Postage:
Now some sellers will include postage in the asking price for their items, not to be confused with offering FREE postage. This raises the asking price of the item and places you at a disadvantage when there are similar /same items also for sale at the time. Remember, the first thing buyer’s check, after the item description, is price.
My Advice: If you intend to charge for postage, keep it separate and transparent.
In a crowded marketplace, offering FREE postage can certainly give you an advantage and attract more potential buyers. Just be sure to specify exactly what postage service you are offering so there’s absolutely no confusion.
Free postage to Australian Capital Cities ONLY
‘Australia Post – Parcel Post’
Delivery Estimate – 5-6 Business Days
If the item’s you are posting were of ‘substantial’ value, it would certainly be prudent to discuss ‘tracking’, ‘insurance cover’ and ‘signature on delivery’ with the buyer before finalizing the total purchase price.
Once again, all of this information/quotes is available online from the major freight service providers, and if not then a quick phone call will solicit the info you need.
The definitive word on packaging –
Hope for the Best, but Pack for the Worst!
- Fragile items should be wrapped in bubble-wrap, before placing them inside a strong corrugated cardboard box, preferably new. If it’s a fishing reel in the original manufacturer’s box, I suggest wrapping the box completely in brown paper, or placing the box inside another box. Why –
- Shipping companies slap all sorts of sticky labels to parcels, so this will help to protect the original from damage.
- It also protects the item from prying eyes! Sending a parcel with “Daiwa Saltiga” or “Shimano Stella” plastered all over it, is just asking for trouble from opportunistic thieves.
- Rods MUST be wrapped in bubble-wrap then placed inside PVC pipe/tubing with sturdy end caps, paying particular attention to the ‘tips’! Cardboard tubes are susceptible to being crushed and/or bent.
- Shipping a rod is expensive, so be sure to be upfront about shipping costs and associated packaging costs with any potential buyer.
- With smaller items, it’s a good idea to explore what pre-paid envelopes, padded bags and satchels are available.
- If the item doesn’t exceed 260 mm x 360 mm x 20 mm and weighs less than 500 g it can often be sent as a ‘large letter’, saving quite a few dollars on ‘parcel post.
- Some of the ‘Platinum & Express’ products also include tracking and insurance, so it’s well worth comparing the costs and features before deciding on a postage solution.
- Be very mindful of sending knives or lures with hooks attached, to ensure that they can’t penetrate through the packaging and injure innocent workers. I suggest using sturdy boxes rather than bags/envelopes for these items; maybe even removing hooks from lures and securing them properly before adding to the package.
- For an online postage calculator, just follow the link below
The main thing to remember with packaging is to put yourself in the buyer’s shoes and pack your items, in the manner that you would hope to receive them.
It really goes without saying that communication is absolutely paramount in the online world.
- How many times have we seen a simple work email escalate to management level because it was ‘taken the wrong way’ or ‘taken out of context’? No matter how good a writer you are, it’s very difficult for the written word to convey the same intent as the spoken word.
- You need to be just as careful in your communication with potential buyers as you are with colleagues and co-workers.
Follow these basic rules and you should enjoy a carefree online shopping experience –
- Be 100% honest in your dealings with others,
- Treat everyone with respect, just as you prefer to be treated,
- Keep the buyer updated at every stage of the process, and
- If a transaction does go ‘pear-shaped’, pick up the phone and sort it out. Don’t get caught or be drawn into an extended email wrangle.
Put yourself in the buyer’s shoes for a second. They trust you with their money, often to buy an item without a physical inspection beforehand, and hope that you will honour the deal, not rip them off and send the goods.
Even makes me nervous, when I think about it like that.
The trick is to allay the buyer’s fears at every possible opportunity.
- Talk to them about the postage options and packaging required,
- Tell them when their funds have been received,
- Tell them when their goods will be shipped and if you experience any delays,
- Tell them once the goods have been shipped.
- Give them the tracking number if available, and
- Follow up to ensure that the goods have been received and that there are no problems.
Follow these simple steps and I guarantee you will enjoy hassle free online transactions.
Methods for packaging and sending product are getting more sophisticated every year, so are the platforms for exchanging $$$.
There are multiple ways to accept payment for your goods these days, but the time honoured cash on delivery/pickup (C.O.D) method is still THE most popular where items are being collected in person.
Direct Deposit –
If this is not possible, the next best option is via ‘Direct Deposit’, where the buyer transfers the funds directly into your bank account from their account.
- You will have to send the buyer your BSB and account number, and transactions can take 3-5 business days depending on the actual banks involved.
- Personally, I use this a last resort these days, as I don’t like sending my account details across unsecured email networks, and I don’t like the fact that the banks transfer the funds instantly, earning interest on my money, whilst I have to wait 3-5 days for the funds to hit my account, pffft!
IMHO, PayPal has revolutionised payments for online shopping.
- It only takes a few minutes to setup an account,
- You can link it to your savings account and use it to buy product online with your own cash,
- You can use it to buy products online using your credit card, without ever having to give out your card details. This feature alone ‘Seals the Deal’ for me!
- You can use it to receive payments,
- You can use it to send people invoices,
- It’s incredibly secure,
- What’s not to like?
The ONLY downside I can find is that there are small transaction fees payable for using the service. The fees are deducted automatically so I hardly notice them. For my money, it’s a trivial sum for the convenience, safety and security that the service provides.
Now it is true that some people won’t have used PayPal with an online store yet and might not have their own account, but it’s so secure and convenient, surely it’s only a matter of time.
If you do come across a buyer who refuses to use PayPal, and you don’t want to lose the sale, just get the deal done via Direct Deposit. I will typically send my account number to the buyer in an email and my BSB to them as a SMS to their mobile, but I am a little more paranoid than most.
So, what are you waiting for, get selling today?
Hopefully this article has given you the knowledge and more importantly the confidence to embrace the online marketplace.
It really is a terrific platform for moving your no-longer-required or unused fishing tackle, helping out your fellow fisho’s, and getting a bit of your cash back to do whatever you please with.
Do I need to point out how much happier your ‘better half’ will be, seeing unused stuff vacating the garage/shed, hall closet, under the bed etc.?
Get started today with Australian Tackle Trader.
Buying Stuff Online:
OK, over to the buyers!
But, before we start, may I suggest that if there are any buyers here, who skipped straight to this section of the article –
- Do go back and have a quick skim through the ‘Guide for Sellers’ above. Getting the ‘Seller’s’ perspective of the online process will give you a much better all-round understanding and appreciation of the ‘online classifieds world’.
Why buy stuff online anyway?
- Buying quality used/pre-loved fishing tackle gives many of us the opportunity to pick up gear that we simply couldn’t afford or can’t justify buying new. Good gear just keeps getting better; a lot of it is ‘built to last a lifetime’ and not just yours.
- Often gear is bought for a specific trip; gets used a handful of times, then on returning home, it gets stowed in the garage as it doesn’t suit the ‘local’ fishing environment.
- Providing that the equipment has been well looked after, it makes perfect sense to take advantage of this opportunity to pick up gear that either suits your local waters or for your next trip away, at a significant cost saving on buying new.
OK, so what are the rules?
Rule #1 – Know What You Are Buying
First and foremost, you should at least have decided what you want to buy.
Let’s say you’ve decided to get yourself a new-to-you ‘Barra Baitcaster’ reel for a tropical sportfishing trip (half your luck).
Spend a bit of time on Google and research the models that might be suitable.
There’s literally ‘tonnes’ of information available, if you know where to look. Digital magazine articles, online fishing forums, blogs and manufacturers websites, to name a few.
Some sites specialise in testing fishing equipment and writing reviews for their readers, although you do need to be mindful of who the reviewers really work for!! After a while, you’ll be able to sniff a biased review or ‘advertorial’ at ten paces.
Some unbiased sites that I have found most useful are –
Hopefully, after doing this, you will have decided on a particular brand and model of reel that you want. Or at the very least, narrowed it down to a selection of 2 or 3 that will do the job and you’re not too fussed which one you get (This is very important, as procrastination is the thief of time, and can cause you to miss out on some great deals).
Now, by doing your research, you will also have noted the various pricing being offered, both new and used. File this away; later on this information will enable you to sort the good deals from the rip-offs.
If the reels are still ‘current’ model, I suggest you head on down to a nearby tackle retailer and see how they feel ‘in the hand’. Make sure they balance with the rod you want to use etc. etc.
With all the pre-purchase ‘boxes ticked’ it’s now time to go searching for the reel/reels you want.
So with my motto being – ‘Fish where the fish are’, naturally I’m going to recommend your online community at Australian Tackle Trader, (A.T.T) but Google will find the ads regardless, particularly with the powerful SEO built into the A.T.T ad structure .
Once you’ve located your desired item, you need to make sure that it ‘measures up’ to your requirements.
The main ones to consider are –
- Competitive market price or potential for negotiation,
- Acceptable condition –
- Read the listing very carefully, taking note of the seller’s comments regarding the item’s condition, and
- Scan the photos and look for any flaws or signs of damage/wear/corrosion etc,
- Feasible logistics –
- Freighting a 14ft 1-piece surf rod from ‘Kalumburu’ to ‘King Island’ may not be worth the expense involved; unless you simply ‘Must’ have it of course, in which case the cost is irrelevant.
If you’re still keen on the item, but have questions or would like additional photos etc. it can’t hurt to get in touch with the seller and ask.
It’s even better if the item is located nearby and you can arrange a pre-purchase inspection.
Rule #2 – Check Out The Seller
Don’t be this guy!
Unless you are crazy paranoid, or a conspiracy theorist, in which case you probably should avoid the Internet at all costs, don’t go searching for the seller’s Facebook page and Twitter account or run their name/alias through scammer/fraudster databases.
It’s unlikely that you will be able to find much personal information about sellers anyway, but most sites will allow you to at least have a look at the seller’s other listings for insights into their motives.
- Find someone selling 20 x Penn International 50’s at 50% off RRP and anyone would be a tad suspicious. It could just be the bargain of the century however, so if it were what I was after, I certainly would investigate further, but I would proceed with extra caution.
Some sites, such as eBay, allow buyers to ‘rank’ sellers and give feedback. Other sites allow buyers to give a ‘star rating’ on their service; if that helps you sleep at night, fantastic. As a web developer, I know how easy it is to manipulate some of this ‘data’, so I just don’t worry about it.
If you’re buying through an ‘Internet Forum’ it would be wise to become a member and get to know other members before engaging in financial transactions.
- Generally, you have to reach a certain ‘post count’ before being able to advertise, which helps to weed out some of the ‘dodgy dealers’ and ‘profiteers’.
- Check out some of the seller’s posts to satisfy any suspicions you may have.
Likewise, if you choose to buy through a ‘Facebook Group’, it would be prudent to check out the seller’s Facebook Page for any ‘red flags’.
I avoid buying off Facebook Groups and Forums since I like to keep my private/social life separate from my ‘business’, but to each their own.
Sometimes it’s best not to overthink these things. The percentage of online fraudsters to legitimate users is negligible in the scheme of things.
Rule #3 – Trust Your Instincts
Yeah, it’s an old saying, but still highly relevant in the online world. Unfortunately ‘gut instinct’ can’t be bought nor taught, but it can be learnt over time, and refined with use.
Learn to “Back yourself 100%”
If something just doesn’t feel right, walk away. There will always be another opportunity.
Rule #4 – Make an Offer & Make it a Good One!
How much is too much? How much is too little?
Too late, too late will be the cry when the man with the bargains has passed you by
– Bacon @ Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels (1998).
If you’ve found something you want and it meets your requirements in terms of rules 1 to 3, make an offer and make it a good one.
Too many times, I’ve tried to ‘play it cool’ and offer low or renegotiate my offer in small increments, only to suddenly see SOLD on the listing; missed out again.
It’s no problem if you’re shopping for a Holden Commodore; there’s thousands for sale, just move on to the next one. But I often find that quality gear, that I want to buy, doesn’t come up every day, so if it meets my rules these days, I just go for it.
Sure, sometimes I pay a bit more than I wanted to, but 6 months down the track, “anchored in a tropical creek, desperately trying to stop a good Jack from burying me in the snags”, whatever I paid for my new pride and joy is irrelevant.
Throwing crazy low offers about is another common tactic that’s not only frowned upon by sellers, but also usually completely ignored, along with the buyer’s making the offers.
I’ve been in the situation of making a ridiculous offer on a product, totally insulting the seller in the process. Guess what? They refused to sell to me even after I made a serious offer. My loss again!
It’s all about perceived value anyway, right? I’m sure you’ve heard the saying – “It’s worth what someone is willing to pay for it”! Possibly, if you find yourself drooling over some rare ‘Limited Edition XYZ’, then that may be the case, but for the commonly available product in the marketplace it’s not too hard to determine market value.
Follow Rule #1 and you’ll be able to comfortably navigate this ‘minefield’.
Buying at auction is a little bit different, however –
- Follow rules 1 to 3,
- Make sure you set yourself a price limit and stick to it,
- Don’t get drawn into a ‘bidding war’.
Personally, I avoid auction sites because I’m too time poor to do it properly and I don’t like the way ‘dummy bids’ artificially jack the price up, but if you have time to ‘play the game’, there’s certainly opportunity to pick gear up at substantial savings.
If you’re buying via a Facebook Group or Community Forum, it’s generally first come-first served and you would make contact with the seller using the PM (Private Message) system. This helps to keep your personal information from appearing on open forums.
Confirm Freight/Shipping Arrangements
Once you are in communication with the seller, the next step is to arrange the exchange of goods for $$$.
If the seller is local and happy to meet for a physical exchange, it’s simply a matter of teeing up a convenient time and place.
If freight is involved, you need to determine early, who’s paying for it and what method will be used.
We’ve already covered a lot of information regarding postage/freight from the sellers perspective, so summing up for the buyer –
- Choose a freight service and get an accurate quote if one hasn’t been prepared already,
- Insist on insurance and tracking if you are at all concerned about total loss. It’s rare, but it does happen,
- Discuss and get agreement on packaging arrangements, bubble wrap, pvc tubes etc,
- Agree on the total freight and handling chargeable, and
- Make sure to get a ‘tracking number’ as soon as your goods have been shipped.
Use a Secure Payment Method
Cheques are ancient history, and if you’re even remotely contemplating sending a bunch of bills through the post; please don’t! The odds of seeing them again are remote at best. With money you need to focus on safety and security!
As discussed earlier, if you plan to embrace the digital marketplace and buy some gear online, you really owe it to yourself to checkout PayPal. I was skeptical at first, so were most people, but these days I find it indispensable.
Check it out for yourself.
Defn’: Communication (from Latin commūnicāre, meaning “to share”) is the purposeful activity of information exchange between two or more participants in order to convey or receive the intended meanings through a shared system of signs and semiotic rules.
There’s ONLY one word you need to take from that definition and that’s TWO!
As discussed in ‘Communication 101’ earlier in this article, the better the communication between buyer and seller, the much more rewarding the online shopping experience for everyone.
Communication responsibilities from the buyer’s perspective include –
- Discussing and agreeing on postage options and packaging required,
- Notifying the seller that the funds have been transferred or when a payment is likely to be made,
- A follow up message to inform the seller that the goods have been received and that there are no problems, and
- If there is a problem, communicate it to the seller immediately; don’t wait a week or let a niggling issue ‘fester’. Discuss it and resolve it ASAP.
Buying used gear online is a terrific way to purchase items that you may not be able to justify or afford to buy new.
By arming yourself with the appropriate knowledge and following some simple guidelines, the process can be a fun and economical means of getting the gear you’ve been dreaming about.
So there you have it!
Whilst I’ve tried to cover most typical scenarios, a ‘short’ article like this can never hope to cover everything, but by following some of these simple recommendations, hopefully you will be able to embrace the online experience with a lot more confidence and gain considerably more satisfaction.
One last thing!
Everyone loves a bargain, but by definition, a ‘Good Deal’ is a transaction satisfying both buyer and seller. No one likes to feel like they were ‘ripped off’ or ‘cheated’ so be kind to each other out there.
Remember; you may be a ‘buyer’ or ‘seller’ today, but tomorrow the roles could very well be reversed, so be sure to treat others, as you would like to be treated.
All the best from your A.T.T team.
5206 total views, 1 today